Retro Loz VWT3 re-build

Engine in !

I cleaned up the block and fitted all the necessary diesel parts, I used new gaskets and seals where I could and a new water pump, cam belt and tensioner including a new tensioner stud.


The diesel alternator went on because I managed to just use one v belt from the crank to drive the water pump and alternator, way better than the weird diesel setup with 2 v belts and shims and stuff.

The diesel dipstick is annoying and I'm not sure if I like it but time is ticking and I just want to get it going now.


Finally got the engine in ! It went in nice and easy, I re-used the diesel clutch so ill see how that goes, and fitted a new spigot bearing. I tested the starter and it works fine but I'm going to re-locate the earth lead from the gearbox mounting to the starter bolt as suggested by Aiden Talbot


I started putting all the water hoses on and used the original AGG water flange on the head. I reckon I can make this work all I might need to do is block off the small 8mm pipe or connect it with a T-piece to somewhere, I haven't got that far yet so I will see.


While I was doing this I cleaned up and fitted the engine wiring loom to all the injectors and sensors.


There is plenty of room on the inlet manifold side. It looks really tidy and I kinda like the freaky tilted 50 degree look. Also means any parts are easy to change in the future. I fitted the drive shafts with new CV joints, boots and bolts and fitted the original clutch slave cylinder as it was in good condition.

The throttle body went on then I had the problem of the throttle cable. I didn't want to have a joint with a few inches of AGG cable on there so I bought 10 meters of bike cable with all the nipples and ferrules to go with it and its done the job nicely.

Another thing that was bugging me was the exhaust manifold, I looked at several different ideas but most of them used the AGG cast manifold. I thought that there has got to be another way.


I didn't like the idea of having a 2 into1 joint at the manifold with a 90 degree turn at a length of about 4 inches. The original Golf GTI down pipe has a runner length of 18 inches and this contributes to the torque curve. After a lot of searching I found an ADZ manifold from a Golf mk3 1.8 8v it was perfect and had a lambda sensor with it that was the same as the AGG.


The bores are the same size and shape and the cast shape is very similar apart from the ADZ one has less material around the tubes and obviously the lambda boss is directly on the flange. Sweet.



This will make building an exhaust much easier and the flange is angled away from the engine slightly so I can make a much smoother flow. 



The only problem was the lambda probe was so long that it interfered with the nearside rubber engine mount but this is easily solved with this.


Next up is new fuel pipes and I got a Golf mk2 gti fuel pump to mount underneath somewhere.